Walking Kenya's wilderness areas is a wonderful way to appreciate the animals and landscape, an intimate, comprehensive, and intense experience. When you travel with small groups of people on foot the tracks, sounds, and scents are more vivid, it's easier to see the animals going about their daily business of survival, their relationships to each other and the ever-changing environment. Close sightings are harder won, but the rewards are far greater. Sometimes, when you are taking a rest, plains game such as wildebeest or warthogs or even predators like lion or hyena walk right past - until they catch the scent. Also it's much easier to hear the birdsong and the calls of animals.
The area in which the walks are conducted is huge and it is very unusual to come across any other people at all. The days are ruled by the nature of the area, with walking in the cooler mornings and late afternoons, and time for resting and observation in the heat of the middle of the day.
During the evenings, it's possible to hear the incredible sound of lions roaring, hyenas, and sometimes even the 'sawing wood' sound of a leopard passing through camp. Guests can also hear bushbabies, nocturnal birds and the local insect orchestra tuning up.
The walks pass through land communally managed by local families and, since the trackers have all grown up here, they are expert in finding game in a landscape they've been roaming on foot since childhood. The walks cross rolling plains, acacia valleys and quartzite hills, from 4,500ft above sea level to the top of the Bardamat Hills at 7000ft. The plains consist mainly of red oat grass and the hills are covered by commiphora trees and many different types of acacias.
There are seven different clans of Masai in East Africa, and this region is home to the Purko clan. They live alongside the last survivors of the Laikipiak Masai, also known as Ndorobo, who were scattered by tribal warfare at the beginning of last century and became hunter-gatherers and honey hunters. They still hunt with a bow and arrow in the same way as the Bushmen of South Africa.
Generally five to eight miles are covered in a day, with stops to see game as it appears. Ndorobo trackers spot the game and the guide will carry a heavy-calibre rifle, first-aid kit and radio. Group size is up to six, and children must be 12 or older.
Accommodation is in comfortable, walk-in insect-proof tents, custom-made for the walking safaris. They are bush-green, with large mesh windows on all sides and mesh roof panels to see the stars. All can be closed if rain looks likely or for privacy. Sleeping is in comfortable bedrolls with mattresses, cotton sheets, warm covers and hot water bottles when necessary, on a 7ft X 7ft sheepskin carpet. Washing is in traditional safari bucket showers with hot water, and there is a separate toilet tent. Fresh bread is cooked each day, along with a range of meat, vegetarian dishes and salads, and wines, spirits and beers are all brought along too.
The most popular safari lasts five nights, with three days walking where nights are spent staying in a private mobile tented camp in the Loita Plains (the camp is moved each night and set up prior to your arrival in the next location), and two days driving in the Masai Mara itself. However itineraries can be tailor-made, including longer walks of up to 2 weeks with vehicle support into different areas of the Masai Mara and Loita Hills and special-interest groups for flora, fauna, ornithology and culture.
Alex Hunter's season guide to the Masai Mara
June - Depending on the rains in March-May, the Mara is still green and the grass long. It is heading towards the coolest time of year, and the resident game senses there's something in the air.
July - The grasses are beginning to change colour now and the first of the wildebeest are starting to arrive from the Serengeti in the south.
August - The wildebeest are arriving thick and fast, and all the links in the food chain are getting their fill, so this makes it a very busy time in the Mara. With a million+ wildebeest, zebra and antelope gathering in the area, along with large prides of lions and their cubs, the interrelation of life is fascinating to watch.
September - The migration has very much arrived, and each animal has established its patch over the sweeping plains. The grass is much shorter now, and all the activities of predators and prey are on view. A time of plenty for everything; lions merely stick out a paw from where they lie to catch their dinner.
October - One of the best months to visit throughout the whole of Kenya; the days are fantastically clear and sunny. The migration is beginning to make its way back to the Serengeti, across the short grass plains to catch the annual rains further south.
November - The days begin to heat up significantly, causing dramatic storms. A quiet time for visitors; the wildebeest have all but gone and the grass has a chance to begin to re-grow.
December - Is hot again, and still has the dramatic thunderclouds building up creating incredible sunsets. The odd downpour often happens between Christmas and New Year, but the animals love it and rain always livens them up. Because of the range of altitude, from the Mau Escarpment down to Lake Victoria, it is unusual to go more then a month without rain in the Mara at most times of year.
January - Becoming drier, the start of a gradual build up towards the April rains, and days can be very warm at around 30C. The game viewing is excellent with the shyer animals more visible in the bush. The Topi antelope are beginning to strut their stuff which in large herds of high-stepping animals is a wonderful sight.
February - Is usually the hottest month in the Mara; rivers and streams flowing into the Mara have become trickles. Animals are conserving energy as the build towards the long rains begins. Huge anvil-shaped thunderclouds going up thousands of feet can be seen over the Loita Hills.
March - The wildlife tends to reside on the plains of short grass; almost certainly by the 15th March our long rains have started. Everything fills up and flows again sometimes within hours and it seems difficult to comprehend the changes in the Mara in such a short time. The storms are impressive displays of thunder and lightning: displays can last for hours at night as you watch a storm taking place many miles away in the Serengeti. Some days are beautiful, without a cloud in the sky and it feels as if you have the world (or at least the Mara) to yourselMarch, April, May - It is possible to do a safari during these months, but you have to allow for some adverse conditions and for plans to change accordingly. May is one of the most wonderful months to be in the Mara Reserve as many camps are closed, it's very peaceful, and you might never see another car.
March, April, May - It is possible to do a safari during these months, but you have to allow for some adverse conditions and for plans to change accordingly. May is one of the most wonderful months to be in the Mara Reserve as many camps are closed, it's very peaceful, and you might never see another car.
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